Crow tastes better with the right seasoning.

After writing a less-than-favorable review of the 2010 BMW 5 Series GT, I had visions of putting Mangus Hirschfield behind the wheel of the 2010 X6 M.

BMW refers to the X6 as a sports activity coupe but that has always felt disingenuous. The vehicle has more doors (five) than seats (four), and its gangly body makes it look like a lunar rover. The X6 seems to have an identity crisis.

Hirshcfield, a German sexologist in the early 1900s, might be able to help; after all, he did coin the term transvestism. I figured he could help wade through the perils of judging something by its cover.

But after a day of driving the X6 M, I realized you just can't spell Adam's Apple with an M. Looks aren't everything; even in today's hyper-shallow world.

Somewhere south of Saginaw, I was well over the suggested speed along Interstate 75. It was pouring rain and there were semi trucks in the left and right lanes in front of me.

Splitting big rigs on the edges of three lanes is never fun. Add to that the blinding wall of water both kicked back, and I thought I might be trapped behind them all the way to Grand Blanc.

But then I tapped the aluminum paddle shifter twice, dropping the X6 M into fourth gear, and it roared with laughter -- pulling all 555 horsepower from its 4.4-liter twin turbocharged V-8. I was through the crease faster than Barry Sanders.

The acceleration above 70 mph is fantastic. BMW includes a new twin scroll twin turbos with a crossover exhaust manifold, which obviously sounds very important. The result is a clean, efficient power boost that launches this vehicle whenever you want to. Who doesn't want 500 pound-feet of delicious torque at his or her beck and call? People who don't drive M's, that's who.

But that power wouldn't have anywhere to go if the lightning-fast six-speed automatic transmission wasn't so silky. The electronic shift mounted between the two front seats is still a little awkward.

• Three different drive modes
• Plush, comfortable interior
• Easy to operate iDrive
• Driving pleasure